So, our foster daughter has her petticoate bodies, and is very happy with it. However, she does need to have sleeves to put over when not working, and if gentry should pass by. the prefered Kentwell option at this time is a waistcoat, but finishing definitively at the waist and not going below with tabs/gores. These things might change in the future! I have not used any patterns, but draped on her to get a toile and gone for tight-ish fitting [she is quite concerned about being able to breath, so isn't as fitted as I would make for DD1. If I did again, I would make a more dramatic curve into the back of that side/back seaming. however, on the whole happy with this...
So I startted with a draped toile in linen onto DD3, and made up the bodice in linen first. I placed it back on and refitted a bit. I needed to tweek the collar and the armholes [ did I say she really can't bear tight]. Having done that I used this to cut out the 3 panels of wool. This is the same 100% wool used for DD2′s jacket – it was orange and overdyed with brown to get this very old gold/brown look. I had 1.5m x 1.5 left, and haven’t quite used it all [but enough that only have patches and extension panels amount left] if that helps with working out how much material needed. The linen was offcuts from my mustard yellow linen petticoate bodies. This I had to piece to get enough to line the body, and I have used white unpieced for the arms as it will be more comfortable. There is a bit of debate about coloured linens – where linens natural, were coloured linings wool? However, I like the mustard.
[pics on phone to add]
the panels were made right side to right side and backstitched, and then the panels joined together by whipstitching the linen together and ladder stitching the wool.
I tried it on DD3 over her petticoate, and realised I needed to drop the waist a bit more, as the petticoat is slightly below her waist, and this waistcoat was exact – a problem of a flighty girl to toile! luckilly I had cut the wool with a big hem, and so pieced in some more linen to extend down an inch.
Now to the arms. Fitted arms are a worry for me, and so I looked at different ways to do it, from calculated clever, to just guess. I went for a toile version. I placed linen and pinned to the armhole and drew round. I tacked in and tried on DD3 – ok so far! so made a proper arm in the linen, tacked on and again tried – still ok.
finally I made with the wool. normally I have made the wool and linen separately and then joined at arm and at wrist, but this time, to aid me fitting nicely into the armhole, I made the sleeve up like a panel – backstitching right side to rightside [and making sure I had one left arm and one right arm] . I tacked it to the armhole and down the sleeve for a final check with DD3 that it fitted and was comfortable before whipstitching and ladderstitching the linen and wool layers respectively. This seemed a more stress free way for me, as I did need to do a width adjustment at the sleeve head, and could do this far more easily.
So currently I have my front and back. I need to add some hook and eyes, and I am half debating whether to just make slightly tighter into the waist… Oh, and whilst I made the waistcoat, DD3 made me a pincushion heart, so here it is