Adding a Guard to a Kirtle [Kentwell 1559]

At open day this year, chatting with the ‘elves’ about DD1′s rich partlet and shift, we also discussed adding a guard to kirtles for that uber authentic tudor look. I like the look of a guard, so took in that it shouldn’t be too thick, and that there should be a second ring above it. I also liked how the black arm extension/guard looked on my daughters poor kirtle.

I cut out 2 strips of my light black wool of 5 inches width, I need 1 3/4 to go around the base of my kirtle, so thought easiest to just cut out 2. My hem has quite a deep turnover in wool anyway, and as you can see, has nowhere near the amount of dirt and grub of SB’s! I think i should probably have cut the black deeper to cover all this hem, however I didn;t ‘kirtle up’ last year, and may well not this year, so will remain hidden!

having done this I pinned them on so that there is 1 1/2 inches of guard showing on the outside, folding over the wool to protect the cut edge [and hide it] . Tis I did as an ‘eyeball’ even and then checked periodically that it was within my parameters of acceptable ;) . I initially started sewing on as a whipstitch, but could see that this was going to take a long time, and that since the guards were made to come off when grubby and be replaced, I could prob get away with a ‘lazy’ slip stitch – essentially tacking between the 2, but so that no stitches are visible, but instead of only grabbing a few fibres of my kirtle i could do a good ‘dig in’ . This worked well, was quick, and again I used doubled thread [gutterman black rather than linen as it is more invisible]

I turned over and did the inside in exactly the same way, pulling taut over the kirtle edge so it would lie nicely. Happy with that I think! now just need to do the next ring up.

Currrently trying to decide the width of the decorative band…

Are the strips ok Trying to decide second stripe width

So I asked an elf, who was happy with this spacing :) so being sewn on now, nearly finished, but will put picture when done all the kirtle jobs of finished project. It does look really nice with the double band :)

here i am – all approved

costume checkcostume check

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2 Responses to Adding a Guard to a Kirtle [Kentwell 1559]

  1. TBird Anni says:

    that really does add a lovely touch to it.

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